Savage Slit - Coire an Lochain - 9th November 2016

The start to the 16/17 Scottish Winter season disappeared as quickly as it arrived. Thankfully now as I write Scotland is taking a bit of a battering off of Storm Barbara and something more akin to Winter is returning to the hills. I managed to squeeze in a pretty productive start to the season despite the short lived early season conditions. I picked up a copy of Simon Richardson's new book 'Chasing the Ephemeral' before the season started and this filled me full of psyche for the months ahead. The book is more of an instructional manual on how to judge what kind of conditions exist in the hills and how the weather influences them, once this is understood it provides an insight into how best to maximise your chances of success for the given conditions. It is years of experience distilled down into one book and I would highly recommend picking up a copy, it has certainly changed how I will evaluate my approach to route/crag choices this Winter. Plus it is full of a staggering collection of Scottish Winter climbing photography. 

The teams above on Savage Slit (left) and Fallout Corner (right), with Ally in hot pursuit.

Myself and Ally Fulton clawed ourselves out of our beds at the standard early hour accustomary to Scottish Winter climbing for the drive North to Aviemore. We both had Savage Slit in mind as a good early season option and it proved to be a good choice. As we walked into the corrie it became abundantly clear just how well rimed up the cliffs were. We slogged on up to the foot of the route to find a team already making their way up the first pitch and another team heading on up Fallout Corner. We elected to join the queue so layered on up and cracked open the flask of tea.

Soon Ally was heading on up the first pitch which is easy enough to start although felt slightly insecure. Soon he was deposited beneath the Slit itself and was getting involved with the initial crux. The Slit starts off pretty secure with good hooks and gear although this runs out for a short section where the hooks are slightly more tenuous. Unperturbed Ally placed a cam, made a couple pulls on some decent edges up the cracked wall and was soon within the bowels of the Slit itself. Some grovelling followed and out he popped at the first chokestone and belay. We waited for a bit of time for the team ahead to move off then it was my turn to follow on up. It felt strange to be pulling on axes again but was looking forward my pitch above. 

Myself enjoying the back and footing while approaching the second crux.

Gear swapped at the belay and I was soon heading on up the immaculate second pitch. Some nice and easy bridging moves up the face of the corner to start with led up to a section where the good edges out right dried up. There was nothing for it but to get heavily involved within the Slit itself. Some back and footing gained another couple of metres followed by some comedy mantle-shelfing but the promised sinker gear and hooks continued. 

Second crux dispatched, just some enjoyable big hooks and more chimneying action left, (photo credit David McKinney).

A further impasse was reached where the hooks became rather thin and I only had one mono on a high edge. I pressed my back hard against the chimney, with my right knee up against my torso, left foot low down smearing away, and I began fiddling in a hex. This proved rather awkward and in hindsight I had clearly paused to place gear mid crux. Determined though the hex was eventually seated and as is the norm, once I made the pull off the thin hook, I got myself into a much comfier position with great easy gear in reach - sods law. The chimney opened out slightly from here and the climbing got much easier and soon I was at the insitu belay. Ally quickly followed thoroughly enjoying the pitch. The team above us had left their ab ropes in place for their pals on Fallout Corner, so we duly accepted their rope and scooted on back down. 

Ally loving the good early season conditions on second pitch. 

Savage Slit did not disappoint and it was a fantastic quick day to kick start the season, the weather even cleared up too as the day went on! 

A sociable descent with some beautiful early evening light.